Tailoring a cheap but wearable suit

Inspired by a friend who asked me about getting a suit tailored here in Shanghai, here are my recommendations for getting a tailor made suit. Note that I'm not an expert, just someone who has tried tailoring in Hoi An, Vietnam (the place to go for cheap tailoring, but also the place where you learn that cheap tailoring is exactly that... cheap!) and here in Shanghai. Plus someone who loves Project Runway. So what I know could fit into a matchbox. But I do have a (perhaps overly) critical eye/pen/keyboard when it comes to describing pretty much anything, which I believe is helpful in not getting too ripped off.

General points
1. Pick a fairly plain pattern. They cannot make anything too far away from the stock jacket/pants/skirt pattern that they use, so it's better to get a plain cut which they are less likely to stuff up.
2. Note that the samples shown are usually better versions that they got made by someone who actually is a real tailor and knows what they are doing, it is likely what you get will be LOWER QUALITY than what is shown. That makes it difficult to choose a tailor based on the materials in store. I don't feel I've ever been particularly successful in finding great tailors, as even the usual rule of "if there's a long line, it's good" doesn't really hold up. Recommendations from friends who know what they're talking about are VERY useful. Total beginners who somehow got something they liked are NOT good recommendees, but better than nobody I suppose. Your fashionista friend studying design who knows about clothes (and whose personal style you admire) is a better option. Try looking online too.
3. In China the people who own the stores are probably not the same people who make the clothes (gets shipped off to their little sweatshop, if you can find a tailor who makes things him/herself that'd be great, but note that it usually takes longer to get that done), so make sure you get them to DRAW (or write, or ideally both) exactly what you've described to them for the suit.
4. If, when you return for the fitting, you are unhappy with the result, the good news is that after several revisions you can usually end up with something wearable (if not exactly what you wanted in the first place). This is where point 1 comes in though, if you make your designer plainer and more similar to their standard pattern, your suit will turn out better. Revisions can only do so much. They can make sleeves fit better, they can make pants fit properly, they can clean up the lapels etc. But if it's just really ugly, there's not much that can be done about that...
5. In true China style, if you aren't happy, complain and get them to fix it. :o) Be specific: ie the sleeves are too long, these buttons need to be readjusted/sit higher etc. If you have that fashionista friend mentioned above, ask them to come with you!
6. If you have no recommendations and can't find anything useful online AND (most importantly) if you don't mind being a guinea pig, find a place that looks good to you. Although it's unlikely, you might find a diamond in the rough. Note that most places will probably be "the rough" and not the diamond though... I haven't had a great deal of luck with this method, but if you do try it, maybe start with something smaller/cheaper like a shirt and see if you like how they make that.

Materials
7. The point to be made about materials is that if you don't really know good quality fabric over bad quality, you will find it more difficult to know whether you're being ripped off for "the best Italian cashmere". However, it's pretty likely that the store owners are lying. I read somewhere that the really high-end fabrics do not exist in Asia so you can't expect them. My suggestion (from someone who is also not that great with fabrics) is to just go with the print/pattern that you like, feel the fabric (you should at least be able to tell the really cheap and nasty synthetic fabrics from something a little bit nicer) and if you're satisfied with it, then go with that. Don't buy fabrics that are already pilling (those crappy little balls that gather on fabrics) or shoddy looking/dirty. Obvious enough right?

Jacket
8. From watching Project Runway I now know that jackets are one of the hardest pieces to make. The point about keeping this plain is particularly important as you can't get couture from an el cheapo tailor.
9. Small changes are ok i.e. different collar or lapels, where the buttons go on the jacket or how many buttons you want should work out. But make sure they write it down/draw it ala point 3 so you end up with what changes you asked for.
10. Get someone else to go with you on your fittings so that they can see what the back of your jacket looks like. Make sure they're honest about it and critical and if possible know something about clothes...
11. Get it lined. Just make sure you ask for lining because otherwise you MIGHT not get,... it's always best to make more requests than less.

Pants
12. Pants are easier to make so they shouldn't struggle too much. However you need to watch out for things like them making the pants way too straight leg/high waisted (you do NOT want nerd pants). When they're measuring you for the pants you will be able to see how long they are making them, and how wide etc. So if you wanted wide legged pants and the width around your leg they're measuring seems pretty tight, you can tell them to make it wider. They'll try to argue but just fight back. You can always get the pants let in, but you can't really let it out that much.
13. I also recommend asking for lining because it means the pants won't be itchy if you got a woolen material. Note that you might not get it (I didn't even though I asked for it...)

Skirts
14. Basic skirts, best to go A-line. The fashion for skirt styles in China is a bit different to Western countries, so basic is good in this sense because otherwise you end up with some weirdly froufrou China style.
15. A good thing to note with a skirt is the zips/closing. I hate those stupid little metal fasteners they use so I asked for a button to close it. I recommend that because the little metal things tend to fall off easily. Buttons are marginally better so ask for that. It's easy to change if they forget too! That's a good note for the pants too, buttons > little metal fasteners.

And that's my advice, useful or not. It's a lot to think about, which is why I'm saying off the rack on sale can be better... less things to think about and the workmanship is already there for you to see. You can tell if the buttons are close to falling off, or if the seams are uneven, you know what you're buying. It also takes a long time to get a tailored suit, which not everybody has.

In the end, you get what you paid for, so if you pay around 500yuan for your suit, you won't end up with something that looks like it cost a lot of money, but you can end up with an acceptable and wearable suit for less than you'd pay off the rack (make sure you bargain them down - it is China after all, it's all negotiable BEFORE the deal is made, but not afterwards), which is what most people are looking for.