Thursday, October 16, 2008
Settling in - life in Shanghai
An overview of my daily life in Shanghai:
- Wake up early, having been awoken by the noisy tones of my grandparents making desultory morning conversation, but in very loud voices as they're both a bit deaf. Sweet sounds of birds chirping it is not. Birds chirping is also way overrated, I'd rather have silence. Oh sweet silence. My grandparents are very noisy people. When they talk, it's loud, almost yelling. When they watch TV, the sound is way up. And every afternoon they play mah jong and then there are 5 old people sitting there being deaf and loud and when they "wash" the tiles (kind of like when you shuffle cards) it's a cacaphony of loud exclamations (of "oh my cards were so terrible" or "oh i was just waiting on this one") and the tiles clanking against each other repeatedly.
- Eat breakfast (usually rice porridge and some small items like pickles, tofu and preserved vegetables) and then walk to class. Except for Wednesdays when I have afternoon class, yes! Sleep in! Although my noisy grandparents wake me up early, they go out to buy the daily groceries which gives me about an hour of blissfully silent sleep.
- Class lasts for a bit over 3 hours, in blocks of 1.5 hours each and a 20 minute break in between. I've started to make some friends in my class and through them met a couple of others which is nice. I went out to a couple of bars (not very good ones I must admit) and ended up slightly hungover on Wednesday afternoon. I think the cocktails here must have some extra poison in them, I only had one cocktail and one beer and should NOT have been feeling that bad the next day.
We have three types of classes: kouyu (speaking), tingli (listening) and the intensive reading course (can't remember the name in Chinese!). My reading course by far is the best as the teacher is very good at her job. She keeps you involved, and even if it is not exactly interesting perse (I mean it's just reading new words, reading passages about unexciting topics like fixing bicycles and being sick etc, and learning grammar structures) but I certainly feel like I want to learn with her. Listening teacher is also not too bad, but we move too slowly I feel. That's partly because I should be in a higher class but you're meant to do everything all on the same level and I'm too lazy to argue about it. Sometimes it's just easier following the rules here. Speaking is stupid, as we don't spend much time speaking, just reading the passages after the teacher. She's a really nice lady, but not much of a teacher so far. Looks like she might be improving, but time will tell.
- Lunch: I was eating this with my grandparents but now have eaten with classmates a couple of times. Both times Japanese! Curry and then ramen. I really want sushi though. Haven't yet scoped out the best places to eat. The area that my university is in is not as cheap as it's fairly central, but my grandparents said there are some good places around. Chinese is the cheapest of course, should eat more of that!
- Then the rest of the day I spend studying and watching TV online (yes, at the same time - although you need to study a fair amount, it doesn't need THAT much brain power).
Overall not hugely exciting, and I've never really been a fan of stability/routine, but that's what it's like here. My grandparents are very big on routine (they're old) so my life gets a little structured around them, and also around classes. They've got a bit of a salsa scene here which I am hoping to look into (found some links to it via Facebook - oh the beauty of FB!) and that should give me a bit of excitement in my life!
Friday, October 10, 2008
Shanghai shopping
Le Sportsac is really big in China right now, which makes sense because it's brand-y enough to appeal to Chinese sensibilities, whilst also being cutesy enough to really really catch on! I invested in two little bags, and luckily my mum's friend was a really good bargainer. I wouldn't have been game to bargain as hard as she did, but then given how weak our Aussie $$$ is right now I should bargain for all I'm worth! I also got two wallets, one "Dior" and one "Gucci", but not the typical weird little infinity symbol Guccis that you usually see. That was definitely a need because my wallet is falling apart. I really wanted this beautiful "Anna Sui" old fashioned flowered one, but she wouldn't lower her price anymore so we walked out. If I see it again maybe I'll buy it. Although who needs so many wallets? You only really use one... it was really really nice though.
My name is Trin and I'm a shopaholic. Hello everyone.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Back to the past - Italy redux! Part 1 - Milano
So it started with landing in Milan to visit Diane, where I also tried in vain to get a new Chinese visa. Let me tell you know that it's no fun dealing with Chinese/Italian bureaucracy. The Italians are already crazy and don't believe in lines, which is also in keeping with Chinese people so it's just mass chaos. New York Chinese consulate was very orderly (those Americans keeping everyone in line), as is Sydney. But Milan? OH MY GOD! When I first got there there was a swarm of people hanging about outside the entrance (actually I went there the day before and it was all quiet and I thought SCORE but then found out it wasn't opened on Tuesdays... grrr...) and they were not really letting people in. Or only very slowly. There were these guys selling newspapers and trying to convince you to buy them, and they said if you did you'd scoot to the head of the line... not quite sure, it worked for one person, but I still feel like it was probably some kind of scam. Anyway, I was mashed amongst people for ages and STILL no use! No Visa! Ugh!
And also if I at any point thought Italy wasn't just a little bit racist there's this: they let the Italian looking people through FIRST and even let them PUSH THROUGH the crowd to get to the front. I realised this was because once inside the lines for getting visas was much shorter than the lines for Chinese consular issues (not sure what most people were dealing with) and ONLY the Italian looking people in the visa line. I mean I know it's partly a practical thing, but wouldn't a better system be to have one line for people doing Chinese-y things and one just for visas outside? Ugh... never again. I'm so glad I don't have to deal with Italian style bureaucracy anymore. Hate it!
Not that China is that much better. More organised/less crazy chaos, but long lines at time and so much admin/paperwork! Stamp this, show this, photocopy that. Everything is so exact and precise! I must say that GENERALLY it is fairly efficient though, which is nice. As long as there are no problems everything goes through very quickly, quicker than Australia!
Besides the visa dramas Milan was fun! It was rather surreal walking around and seeing all these familiar things. It kind of felt like it hadn't been that long and yet it was. So much can happen in two years.
I did some touristing around during the day while Diane was at work. I randomly went to Parma when my train to Como didn't turn up (oh Trenitalia... so RELIABLE) because my Lonely Planet said it was famous for its food, particularly ham. I love both food and ham. But Parma was a disappointment because it was August and lots of stuff is closed then. Also my LP is a bit out of date now (it was good in 2006!) and the salumeria in it no longer exists. *sigh* In short, Parma is kind of lame, don't go unless you've got a good reason. Better than you just kind of like ham and don't know where else to go.
I also finally made it to Como, yay for me. Beautiful but I almost puked on the bus from Como to Bellagio and that would have been unpleasant. All those nasty bendy bits in the road. Ugh.
Plus two of my friends from exchange were also in Milan! Score! I was meant to be meeting them in Amalfi but I hadn't realised we'd be in Milan at the same time. I met them in Taxi Blues (just turned up after I got an email saying that was where they'd be for lunch) a cafe near Bocconi university where we always used to eat lunch. And then we did what we always did in Milan and went shopping - down Via Torino!

"Back in Milano!"
Then onwards to aperitivo at Slice. Yum, just as delicious as always. We also tried going out to Old Fashioned Cafe but it was... ba bam BAAAAM! Closed. Dead as a doorknob.

Instead we got the best gelato in Milan from Ciocolat and then ended up at some outdoor drinking place where everyone stands around drinking beer and cheap alcohol.
The next night we had a nice Italian dinner (complete with after dinner espressos and limoncello) and ended up at Old Fashioned again which we'd heard was opening up that night! Such a difference from the night before where we have photos of us standing outside a desolate and slightly decrepit looking gate... It was a great continuation of my Milan reminiscences tour. I'm lucky I had friends there because it would have been a pretty sad place to revisit on my own.
Being at Old Fashioned was just like going out in Italy always was. Although we knew a lot less people. But you always meet skeezy Italian men when you're out and about, particularly if you're with three girls with blue blue blue eyes, and particularly when two of them are blonde! Italians are obsessed with the blonde hair/blue eyes look! I guess it has that foreign appeal that the Italian guys like. Except if you're Asian. Do I sound kind of bitter? I'm not exactly, but it IS annoying. I'm not going to turn this into a rant about Italy and racism (already done that up above) because I'm not living there anymore so there's no point. And there are some really nice Italians too, so I guess it's not fair to lump them all in the same broad category. And dealing with all of that is also a trip down memory lane, just the not so good side.
Overall a good balance. A mixture of the good and the bad. Enough for me to be like "yes there was all this stuff that I forgot that I enjoyed in Milan" combined with enough of the "oh yes, that's right, it was like THAT" so that I could be happy with my re-visit but also happy that it's not my home anymore.
Next up - Amalfi! :o)
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Reading over the old to create the new
I realised looking through previous posts that I really did run out of thoughts and time along my travels. Big gaps in places and not wholly satisfying descriptions/narratives/anecdotes of my travels. I think it's hard in this kind of situation because you want to make what you're writing about interesting but without getting so personal that you're revealing too much of yourself. It's got to be more than just a description of what you've done and what you've seen and where you've been. Because that's not interesting and if I was going to just do that then I'd just list places and monuments etc. And what makes it even harder is that you're always pushed for time when you're travelling, so you only have 10 minutes here or 30 minutes there, and you're never quite sure of when you'll next get internet!
So I feel like overall I wish I'd written a little more to remember things by. I have photos too, but I suppose that's not quite the same. Did I manage to get down what I was thinking or feeling at certain times? I think it's important to be able to learn from my experiences. And travelling, particularly travelling solo, is the perfect opportunity to be able to explore thoughts, feelings, ideas that you've had gestating in the deep, dark recesses of your subconscious. You come away from it all knowing more about yourself. Or maybe you come away having figured out something that's niggled at you for a long time.
What did I bring away from all of this? That you can't always plan really far into the future and that's ok. Feelings of instability and insecurity are fine, and not knowing where you might be in 5 years is acceptable too. It'll all come in time, and until it does, there's no point stressing yourself out more by worrying. This is not, however, the same as doing nothing and leaving everything to pure chance/luck/fate/ whatever you want to call it! It's more accepting that you don't know everything right now and that's all right.
This is more of an LJ post than anything else, but lacking the ability to access LJ, I'm left with this. I suppose it's an overshare for a travel blog post but I need to put it somewhere!
China - settling down
I'd like to write something interesting about first impressions etc but then I've been to Shanghai a few times now, so it's not really first impressions at all. I had forgotten what China was like though and from reading my Lonely Planet I guess I'd recreated a very different Shanghai in my head. In reality, Shanghai, although modern, is still a Chinese city, making it VERY different from other, Western cities. I guess because New York, LA, San Fran, although they weren't the same, all had that essential Western city look to them that made me almost feel like I was at home in Australia. Even Mexico City, despite the armed guards with guns (eep!) and the street stalls selling tacos and other various tasty Mexican street meats, was kind of European looking.
But Shanghai is... well you definitely know you're in China. Because it's so quickly developing I thought that perhaps a lot of the inequalities between rich rich and poor poor had disappeared, at least in terms of buildings and infrastructure. However you can still find tall skyscraper apartment buildings next to little shanty type hut things. Although I guess there are less than there used to be. And then you've got all the little fresh food markets, with people selling a whole range of vegetables (yum) and then big slabs of meat just hang out on wooden blocks (not so yum).
So far my classes are ok. I'm in this weird situation of having much better spoken and listening skills than written and reading skills but because of the way the system works here I am all on the same level for all. Not very well organised I suppose, although I have been told some people mix and match classes, but generally have to figure it out on their own. It's good to learn some proper grammar having never really properly studied Chinese before. Just dribs and drabs of when my mother and grandmother tried to teach me, as well as the very uninformative lessons I took at a Chinese school back when I was 11.
Haven't properly made friends yet, but have a few people I talk to in class who are quite nice. I already have family and other connections in China so it's not too lonely. Also meeting up with Xixi in Qingdao was good. It did make my slowly developing Chinese a lot worse, as I didn't have to speak Chinese for about 5 full days! Every day you speak you gain so much, and every day you don't you lose so much. Probably the internet is a bad thing too as it means I'll spend more time in front of it and less trying to talk to my grandparents. Oh well, I'll try to limit myself, and anyway they always vegetate in front of the TV every evening.
Now should study for a dictation test tomorrow!
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Food mem
This is unrelated to travel but the list won't come up formatted properly on my other blog so it goes here (as I went to all the effort to go through and do it, including looking up the items that I didn't recognise). Seems there's still a lot of foods I still need to try. Even after you knock out the really gross things like offal. Ew.
1) Copy this list into your blog or journal, including these instructions.
2) Bold all the items you’ve eaten.
3) Cross out any items that you would never consider eating.
4) Optional extra: Post a comment here at www.verygoodtaste.co.uk linking to your results.
1. Venison
2. Nettle tea
3. Huevos rancheros
4. Steak tartare
5. Crocodile
6. Black pudding
7. Cheese fondue
8. Carp
9. Borscht
10. Baba ghanoush
11. Calamari
12. Pho
13. PB&J sandwich
14. Aloo gobi
15. Hot dog from a street cart
16. Epoisses
17. Black truffle
18. Fruit wine made from something other than grapes
19. Steamed pork buns
20. Pistachio ice cream
21. Heirloom tomatoes
22. Fresh wild berries
23. Foie gras
24. Rice and beans
25. Brawn, or head cheese
26. Raw Scotch Bonnet pepper
27. Dulce de leche
28. Oysters
29. Baklava
30. Bagna cauda
31. Wasabi peas
32. Clam chowder in a sourdough bowl
33. Salted lassi
34. Sauerkraut
35. Root beer float
36.
37. Clotted cream tea
38. Vodka jelly/Jell-O
39. Gumbo
40. Oxtail
41. Curried goat
42. Whole insects
43. Phaal
44. Goat’s milk
45. Malt whisky from a bottle worth £60/$120 or more
46. Fugu
47. Chicken tikka masala
48. Eel
49. Krispy Kreme original glazed doughnut
50. Sea urchin
51. Prickly pear
52. Umeboshi
53. Abalone
54. Paneer
55. McDonald’s Big Mac Meal
56. Spaetzle
57. Dirty gin martini
58. Beer above 8% ABV
59. Poutine
60. Carob chips
61. S’mores
62. Sweetbreads
63. Kaolin
64. Currywurst
65. Durian
66. Frogs’ legs
67. Beignets, churros, elephant ears or funnel cake
68. Haggis
69. Fried plantain
70. Chitterlings, or andouillette
71. Gazpacho
72. Caviar and blini
73. Louche absinthe
74. Gjetost, or brunost
75. Roadkill
76. Baijiu
77. Hostess Fruit Pie
78. Snail
79. Lapsang souchong
80. Bellini
81. Tom yum
82. Eggs Benedict
83. Pocky
84. Tasting menu at a three-Michelin-star restaurant.
85.
86. Hare
87. Goulash
88. Flowers
89. Horse
90. Criollo chocolate
91. Spam
92. Soft shell crab
93. Rose harissa
94. Catfish
95. Mole poblano
96. Bagel and lox (salmon)
97. Lobster Thermidor
98. Polenta
99. Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee
100. Snake
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
Back in Australia
Home for 2 weeks and then buzzing off to China. will post about adventures soon!